Trekking The Annapurna Sanctuary

They day after collecting our mountain permits (2000 rps) we began our long hike to the Annapurna Base Camp, aka, ABC. Annapurna is the 10th highest mountain in the world at 8091m. It has some pretty devasting facts to go along with it. There have been recorded 129 succesfull ascents of the mountain, with a fatality rate double that of the attempted ascents. Another mounatin in the same range, Machapuchhre, known as the fishtail because of the shape of its peak, is now forbidden to be climbed, because of how dangerous it is. Making it to both of these great mountains base camps should be a challenge.

Day 1. Phedi - Tolka. 1030m ascent. 870m descent.

We set off quite late on the 14th of December at around 12:30. We got a taxi to Phedi where the Annapurna Sanctuary trek begins. After taking some photo's of the us beginning our trek, we turned around to see the biggest and steepest stair set ever. After ascending half way, we more or less stripped all our gear off as we were sweating like mad. A brief encounter of the route to come our way. We wanted to make it to Tolka, which according to the trekking book I borrowed way back in Jasailmer, it should take around 5-6 hours. So we had to get a move on. At the top of the stairs was the village of Dhampus, a basic himalayan village, selling everry day groceries but at mountain price (we found this price rapidly increases as the altitude does) and guest houses and lodges scattered around also. We were trekking in the low peak season, December being quite cold in Nepal, but there were more trekkers around than we expected. About an hour before reaching our destination, we bumped into Qussami, a fella who owned a lodge in Tolka, and because we met him en route he offered us discount for staying at his lodge. The night went by ok, it got a little chilly, but it was nothing compared to the days ahead.



Day 2. Tolka - Chhomrong. 870m ascent. 450m descent. With Hot Spring Sidequest.

From here the trek really started to get interesting, we were in the middle of a huge valley, with a path that worked its way around the hillside. We crossed a few rope suspension bridges which were really old but quite safe. We saw the main river which runs through the valley, and it looked freezing! I wouldnt fancy trying to do any rafting down that one. Plus there were tonnes of waterfalls that we passed every now and then. Our side quest for the day, involved a trip to the hot springs below the village of Jhinu. I expected them to be natural pools, but they were infact man made pools, with natural hot spring water flowing into them. They were really warm, despite the outside temperature of less than 5 degrees C. We chilled in them for ages, relaxing our already tired legs, and taking a well-needed choc-choc break. The hot springs were at the bottom of the valley, near the river. What we didnt know, was that our camp for the night was at the very top of the valley! This turned out to be, in my opinion, the second hardest part of the entire trek, especially as our legs were nice and relaxed from the hot bathe. Maj, bless his cotton socks, was really struggling with this part, as his legs kept seizing up with cramps. Half way up, we bumped into a recognisable character from yesterday. A chap from Slovakia, who we later found out was called Milo (Meelo). We just called him Slovak for now though. He was resting at Taulung, where a lovely woman was trying to intice all of us into staying at her homestay. Milo stayed, but me and Maj wanted to keep on track and achieve the days target of Chhomrong. We finally made it to the Chhomrong cottage, ate pizza, macaroni and cake (we need energy excuse) and hit the sack.



Day 3. Chhomrong - Himalaya. 1140m ascent. 510m descent.

The view the next morning was incredible! We were right in the mountain range, with snow capped peaks in distance, that looked so intimadating from where we were at. I couldn't wait to get up there. The next part of the trek saw a change of environment, the valleys suddenly dissapeared on us, and we were walking through a kind of forest/jungle. This was an easy going walk compared to the previous day. The same guide mentioned earlier, recommended an overnight stay at a place called Bamboo, but we decided to progress to the following days recommended destination, known as Himalaya. The dining area had a heated table with thick blankets surrounding the open edges so the heat couldn't escape. The idea is to put your knees under the blanket for the warmth, it was pure heaven! At Himalaya we were accompanied by three Frenchies, a Japanese and Korean girl combo, and our friend Slovak! From here we got really good friends with Milo, he was a funny charachter, addicted to the Himalayan delicacy known as Dal Bhat (Rice, lentil soup and veg curry, me and Maj stuck to the pizza's and macaroni still, Dal Bhat tastes blander than school dinners).




Day 4. Himalaya - Annapurna Base Camp. 1290m ascent.

There was a pact made the previous night that all of us would make it to the ABC today. Me and Maj couldnt risk getting altitude sickness so we took a Diamox tab in the morning to help prevent it, we may aswell have used them, cuz I dont reckon Jenkin hill would have brought on any side effects. By this point Maj was really pushing himself to his limit, stating that he felt like he did the morning after his half marathon. At Deurali, which is only two stops (4 hours) from the ABC, I managed to hustle him some walking sticks to help out. At Machapuchhre Base Camp, we met a weird bozz-eyed Nepali called Raam (Gears of war ehh?) He was cracking up for the fact we knew some Nepali swear words, like Chigni (Any guesses?) He started offering us to go find some Nepali girls in Pokhara and 'make gang bang'. We decided against it for the time being. We had a mission to fulfill. The final stretch from MBC to ABC was cold. Just cold. It was the first time that we had been required to fully wrap up, gloves, hat, snude, jacket the whole nine. We were following an army of Korean trekkers who were slow. Just slow. We ended up overtaking everyone of them and hitting the Base Camp again way ahead of schedule. The clouds had rolled in already, so a decent view of our goal was fairly prohibited for now.

That evening our little trekking family added another member, a British lad called Ady. He was trekking alone in Nepal for 3 months, at only 18, so kudos to him. He was very funny, loud, and loved doing southpark and lord of the rings impersonations.... Made me laugh anyway.





Day 5. Annapurna Base Camp - Bamboo. Descent 1500m

When morning came round, the skies had cleared and the Annapurna mountain range was there. Just there. It made the difficulty of the trek such a bargain, for a sight this appealing to the eyes. The Frenchies told us that there was a lake at the top of one of the side ridges surrounding the Base camp (My ears pricked up like a dogs at the sound of this mini excursion, Maj on the other hand..... Stayed in bed for extra hour or so, bee-atch). I gained a new partner for this climb, the Dal Bhat Slovak. Milo was as curious as me about the lake. Just before we headed out a Sherpa also came along, I forget his name though, Wikas, or Sakwis or some shit. It was a lot harder than I thought with it being really snowy and even rockier underneath the white sheet. Although the lake had been frozen over (duh) and snow covered (double duh) the view from the top of the ridge was pure bliss. It just made the whole experience that little bit more amazing for me. I've always wanted to see the Himalayas, and now, Iv'e seen the Himalayas, one more tick off the achievement list of life. The descent was much easier than the ascent, as we slid down a rock face covered with ice and snow, I was a little scepticle about this at first but thought, fuck it. It was good fun. Oh and one thing to point, whilst we were climbing, we heard a roar from the Korean army below, which made us aware of an avalanche that was happening to the right of us. It was like a slow moving waterfall of cloud, and yes, David Attenbrough got it on candid camera, mad skills dawg.


Day 6. Bamboo - Ghandruk. Ascent 1200m, Descent 800m

I thought this was the hardest day of all as we had to ascend all the way up to Chhomrong, to drop all the way back to the river, to climb once again up to a village that I really couldn't give a toss what its name was. Hard. Just Hard. We also left our friend Milo at this stage of the trek, as he was continuing on to meet his lady at Taulung (long story, invloving cheap eggs and Dal Bhat. Plus he missed the hot springs on the way up). He should always remember the Nepal slang, 'tooti fruiti pooti'. Thats one for the boys back home.


Day 7. Ghandruk - Naya Pul. 1000m descent.

This was a really nice easy going day for us. Having done the trek 3 days quicker than we thought it would take us. We were suprised at how close to the finish line we were. A finish line which held one more, piss taking obstacle for us to conquer, and if you have been dedicated to reading this lengthly piece, you're in for a story to last the Mellor's and Hussain's for generations. So, we finally reach Naya Pul, sign out at the mountaneering checkpost and head for the road to get ripped off by a taxi driver. As we walked through the village with all our gear (which really hurt my damn shoulders at this point) we were collecting some really awkward looks? We got to the road when a man pulled over in what we thought was a cab, and told us of how there is a road strike throughout Nepal, not just Pokhara, but Nepal. He said no taxi's or bus's are allowed on the road. The reason for this which we found out from a well spoken shopkeeper was because of the Nepali Maoists. Its basically a religious terrorist activity, where any vehichles driving during the ban, would be stoned, barricaded and even torched! After 7 days of hauling ass, we get this shit to deal with. Our only way back to Pokhara (an hours drive by the way) is to either walk (sod that) or pay 4 g's for a rescue helicopter (no way!). The shopkeeper had an absolutely outrageous plan which involved telephoning an ambulance and one of us having to pretend to be really ill, so they would transport us back to town.........why not? The hospitals refused to send any help, but luckily the red cross had an ambulance in the vacinity and within 30 mins along came our ride. I was volunteered for the acting role of the patient, and when the ambulance arrived he didnt ask any questions, check me out or anything. He just opened the rear doors and threw us in. I laid in the back to help the case. On the way to Pokhara Maj spotted Ade and told the ambulance to pull over real quick, he climbed in, and told us of how he had walked nearly 20 miles or so, he was going to do the walking option to Pokhara! We passed so many other tourists walking back to town, among all the locals also. There were plenty of people stood at the roadside looking intimidating with stones and sticks, waiting for a driver who disobeyed the road strike. Luckily, they were thoughtfull enough to let three westeners mosey-on by in an ambulance. We got to Pokhara, the ambulance fled, and we cherished the moment of being back in one piece.

Pokhara & Annapurna Photo Link:
http://www3.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2247890011/a=2264773011_2264773011/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/